FAQ:

SELECTING & PLANTING TREES:

1. What do I need to consider when trying to select a tree to plant?
2. How do I know if there is enough space to plant a tree?
3. What type of transplant tree should I use?
4. How do I plant my tree? How do I know if my trees have been properly planted?
5. Should my arborist stake my new tree?
6. We want to plant a large tree and our tree care company suggested using a “tree spade” machine. Is that a good idea?
7. How do I take care of my tree after it has been planted?

Selection of trees depends on the desired effect and the purpose trees will satisfy in the landscape. Will they attract birds to the area? Shade a patio? Screen an unsightly view? Enhance the view of the home? Identify an entrance or exit? Trees should provide contrast and relief from surrounding buildings and create seasonal interest in areas near the home.

What do I need to consider when trying to select a tree to plant?

When selecting a specific tree, consider:
• hardiness (ability of the plant to survive extremes of winter cold and summer heat)
• mature height and spread;
• growth rate;
• cleanliness;
• type of root system;
• moisture and fertilizer requirements;
• space available;
• maintenance requirements;
• availability;
• ornamental effects, such as branching habit, texture, and color of bark, flower, fruit and foliage;
• and whether the tree is evergreen or deciduous.

A local tree care company can help you determine which tree species both performs well in your local area and is suited to your desired planting site.

Arborists often do a close analysis of the specific planting site to determine the potential susceptibility or resistance to environmental conditions such as:

• disease and insect problems that may limit your selections,
• the prior use of the planting site,
• the presence or absence of channelized winds,
• the location of utilities both above and below ground because they are site conditions that dictate plant choice and location,
• and the relationship of the plant to roads, walkways and security lighting.

If you live in a dry, desert-like environment you need to make special consideration of watering requirements. It is best to consult an arborist for recommendations. Your choice of tree species will depend on how much water is available for your landscape.

The installation of a xerophytic landscape, the use of trees and shrubs adapted to dry, desert-like conditions, might be recommended.

How do I know if there is enough space to plant a tree?

The space available at the specific site and mature tree size are important considerations and addressing these limits will go a long way towards reducing maintenance costs.

It is generally recommended to not plant trees that will grow 25 feet or taller under overhead power lines. Do not forget the underground utilities. Out-of-sight does not mean that they would not have to be serviced at some point. Permanent plantings such as trees should be spaced to allow utility service. Ground-level utility structures such as transformers and individual service connections require space to be serviced. A minimum of 10 feet clearance after the tree has grown to maturity will help avoid any possible electrical hazards.

What type of transplant tree should I use?

Smaller trees can be purchased in three common forms:

1. bare-root, (BR)
2. balled and burlapped (B & B)
3. container-grown.
All are acceptable but you should be aware of the limitations of each.

Bare-Root:

Bare-root plants are normally transplanted in October or early November and again in March to mid-May. These plants may be sold with the roots tightly packed in a moisture-retaining medium that is wrapped with paper or plastic or with roots loosely covered by a moist packing medium. If bare-root trees cannot be planted soon after purchase they should be temporarily planted (heeled in) by removing the packing materials and covering the roots with soil or organic matter, such as wood chips and watered regularly to prevent drying of the root system. Bare-root trees are normally less than 21/2 inches in diameter.

Balled and Burlapped:

Many trees are moved with a ball of soil protecting their root system.Soil balls are heavy (approximately 100 lb./per cu.ft.). Because of the weight involved, professional tree care companies with proper equipment should be hired to plant large trees. Smaller soil balls should be carried with a hand under the ball. Carrying a balled tree by the stem or branches can result in a seriously damaged root system. Mulch and water B & B trees thoroughly if they cannot be planted soon after purchase.
B & B trees usually have a shorter establishment time. Trees up to 8" in diameter are considered to be commercially transplantable using this method.

Container-Grown:

Many tree types are grown in containers. Advantages of this type are that the root system is undisturbed at the time of planting, and trees can be planted throughout spring, summer and fall. Roots must be pruned immediately before planting container-grown trees. Root pruning normally leaves about 50 percent of the roots in containerized plants, which is sufficient to permit plant establishment. This compares with about 5 percent or less of the root system being transplanted with B & B trees. Always remove the container prior to planting. If container grown plants cannot be planted at the time they are purchased, place them in a sheltered location and water to keep the soil moist. Container-grown plants can be transplanted anytime when the soil temperature is 50 degrees or higher. This allows time for the plant to be established prior to the onset of winter and to avoid damage from the freezing and thawing of the soil during winter following planting. Caution: Container grown trees can develop problems with girdling roots. If the tree has tightly-packed roots circling around the inside of the container it will take longer for the tree to get established and will be more likely to develop a problem with a girdling root.

How do I plant my tree? How do I know if my trees have been properly planted?

The best option is to rely on the expertise of your local tree care company. They know the proper techniques to use when planting trees. Planting is one of the most important cultural practices that determines success or failure of your new tree.

Transplanting is not successful until the tree returns to a normal growth rate. This transplant recovery period normally takes three years, but may range from 2-8 years. To get the most satisfactory performance from trees, attention must be given to planting details. Using quality plants and following good cultural practices such as watering, pruning and fertilizing will not compensate for poor planting techniques or poor plant selection.

The usual planting seasons are spring and fall. However, container-grown trees and some B & B trees can be transplanted anytime during the growing season if proper watering practices are followed. Where to Plant Community ordinances may restrict planting of trees near power lines, parking strips, street lights, sewers, traffic control signs and signals, sidewalks and property lines. Municipalities may require planting permits for trees planted on city property. City codes often require that trees on city property be maintained by the city, so citizens planting an improper selection can cause problems for themselves and the municipality.

HOW TO PLANT:

General planting steps are as follows:

1. Measure the height and diameter of the root ball or root spread.
2. Dig the hole close to the same depth as the root ball or root depth. The hole diameter should be at least 2 to 3 times the diameter of the root ball or root spread.
3. Identify the root flare, the point of the tree where the trunk ends and roots begin.
4. Set the tree on undisturbed solid ground in the center of the area. Depending on the type of soil, the root flare should be planted at the same level to 2-3" higher than the level of the surrounding soil.
5. Backfill with the original soil removed from the hole. Adding organic matter to the backfill usually is not recommended other than in a few situations.
6. Use water to settle the soil around the root ball to secure the plant.
7. See Watering Newly Planted Trees, to be certain you water the tree properly.
8. Mulch 2 to 4 inches deep with wood chips, bark mulch, or other suitable mulch. See Mulches.
9. Trees should be pruned to remove broken, damaged or dead branches. See Young Tree Pruning.

When planting bare-root, containerized and balled and burlapped trees there are several specific considerations:

Bare-root: Trees, and especially exposed roots, must be kept moist prior to planting. Containerized: The root mass may need to be pruned to prevent circling or girdling roots. Balled and Burlapped: Set the root ball in the hole and remove all twine and nails. Remove or loosen the burlap from the upper third of the root ball. Wire baskets should be removed whenever possible. When not possible, they should at least be cut and folded down so that the top of the wire is at least one foot below the soil surface.

Should my arborist stake my new tree?

That depends on how exposed or unstable your new tree is.

Guying and Staking:

Guys or stakes should only be used when necessary, such as when roots are not solid in the planting hole or where the tree could be dislodged by high winds.Bare-Root and Container Grown trees are more likely to require staking or guying than Balled and Burlapped trees.In most instances, the weight of the root ball is normally sufficient to hold the tree in place, assuming it was properly planted. Research has shown that trees not guyed or staked will actually become established and grow faster than guyed or staked trees.It is best to have guys or stakes professionally installed. Many new products are available to the arborist so that a long lasting tree guy or staking system that does not harm the tree can be installed. Eventually guys and stakes must be removed to prevent damage to the tree.

Tree Wrap:

Tree wrap should only be used when necessary. It is usually reserved for thin-barked trees, exposed trees, or trees in danger of rodent and mammal feeding. Consult an arborist to determine if trunk wrap is needed. If you do use trunk wrap, use one made of new, synthetic materials. They generally work better and are designed to avoid girdling the trunk. Always remove tree wraps after the specified time period to avoid damaging the trunk.

We want to plant a large tree and our tree care company suggested using a “tree spade” machine. Is that a good idea?

Using a tree moving machine, often called a tree spade, can provide an economical way of obtaining larger trees in the landscape.

Planting large trees with tree moving machines:

The tree spade moves a tree with a soil plug attached. Tree spade trees are moved either from nurseries, where they have been specially prepared for transplanting, or from sites where they are already growing in a landscape. Nursery-grown trees generally provide better transplanting success, but, with proper selection and care, trees can be moved from one landscape to another.
Moving large trees with a tree spade requires a good knowledge of the different species' reactions to transplanting and special training and experience in the techniques involved. This type of planting should only be attempted by an experienced tree care professional.

How do I take care of my tree after it has been planted?

Fertilizing generally is not necessary until the tree begins recovering from the shock of transplanting and establishes itself in its new home. This usually takes at least 1 year in non-tropical areas. In tropical and sub-tropical areas, this can take less than a year to occur. In some circumstances, the tree care company may recommend fertilizing a recently planted tree. There are some legitimate reasons for this. You should get the objective of this in writing according to ANSI A300 Part 2 Fertilization standards.

• Mulching is highly beneficial to your newly planted tree. See Mulches.
• Watering is key and must be done properly. See Watering.
• Pruning of newly and recently planted trees is recommended but must be done properly and according to standards. See Young Tree Pruning.
• Staking, guying and using tree wraps may or may not be needed, depending on the planting site and the tree selected.